Splatter!
Ok... you asked for it! Good luck! :-)
The splatter is usually used when the Zap technique cannot be used to get up
an undercut rock. Or the rock is simply too big for a roll up or zap and a
larger kicker must be used. Sometimes it's the only way to get over an
obstacle.
Quick Tips
1. After the launch feel as though your pushing the rear tire into the face
of the rock.
2. Determine your launch point
3. Use the clutch
4. Pull in the clutch as soon as you hit the obstacle
5. Attack by using your legs and compressing the suspension
6. Pull upward on the handlebars
7. Don't be afraid to use the throttle, instead control its effect by the
clutch
8. Use 2nd or 3rd gear. usually 3rd is the preferred gear depending on the
obstacle.
Determining Your Launch Point and/or Kicker
As a general rule of thumb your launch point should be placed about the same
distance away from the obstacle, as it is high. So if the obstacle you want
to
splatter up onto is 4 feet high, then the launch point should be 4 ft away.
This will allow you and the bike time needed to gain the altitude you need
to land on top.
As you approach the obstacle keep a steady throttle, but definitely keep
from going too fast. All your speed should be made from where your launch
point originates. Just as you get to your launch point, clutch comes in,
legs drop into the bike (at this point your butts basically on the seat),
your head and body start to come up, increase the revs and clutch comes out
just as your legs spring forward. Timing is everything. This all happens
in a split second. If this series of movements is too slow, you'll case it,
if you're too fast (very unlikely, but.) again you'll case it, or you'll
over shoot the obstacle and land on your back (I don't recommend that one!).
A key point is to remember to use the clutch. By pulling in the clutch at
the precise moment, it gives the body time to load the suspension and spring
forward, plus it allows the bikes suspension to collapse. If you don't pull
in the clutch, the suspension can't collapse freely when the power is on and
the chain is tight.
You must also realize that all of your suspension power comes from the
bottom rubber bumper. You may have noticed that the newer bikes rear
suspension springs are fairly soft. this allows for quick compression to the
bottom rubber. This is why it's important to load the suspension by pulling
in the clutch and dropping your body.
Again as you approach the obstacle you should feel as though you're digging
a hole and as you come out of it you spring forward and push the rear tire
into the obstacle. The rear tire should hit ¾ of the way up. The key to
body positioning after you've launched is to focus on the push of the rear
wheel into the obstacle. You have to attack it and feel as though you will
hit it where you are aiming. Your body should be slightly back on the bike,
just enough though, so you can absorb the impact with your knees.
Once you hit the obstacle with your rear tire you immediately pull in the
clutch, which allows both your suspension to absorb the impact as well as
your body. This will also bring the front end down.
This technique can be used in so many variations... its the basis for
several advanced techniques.
The best place I've found to learn this technique is on a log. actually that
's where Dennis Sweeten and I first learned this technique back in '91 in
his backyard. We set up a small two by four as our kicker and kept trying
to splatter up onto the end of the log. The log back then seemed like about
5 feet, but it was actually only about 3 feet. I still think they are a
great way to learn the splatter because they are much more forgiving on the
bike and body if you get it wrong! Its also easier to practice where the
obstacle is level on top, otherwise you will need to keep the front end
up... and that's another lesson.
Good luck!
Lonny Hallsted
Double Blip!
The double blip technique is used for obstacles which are shorter in
height then
the wheelbase of the motorcycle and often slightly angled. In the double blip
technique the rider approaches the obstacle at slow to moderate speed and blips
the throttle to lift the front wheel. The rider bends his knees to allow the
motorcycle to come up to him while staying centered. If done correctly the front
wheel strikes a glancing blow off the obstacle and changes direction to parallel
up the surface of the obstacle. At this point the throttle is reduced to allow the
rear suspension to uncompress. The rear suspension should be fully uncompressed
when the rear wheel reaches the base of the obstacle. Just before the rear wheel
contacts the obstacle the throttle is again blipped to drive the rear wheel into
the obstacle. As this is happening the rider straightens his legs to help drive
the rear wheel into the obstacle as well as get his weight over the front wheel.
The throttle is snapped off to allow the rear wheel to drive up the face of the
obstacle while at the same time the rear suspension begins to uncompress. The
rider again bends his knees allowing the rear of the bike to come up under him.
The unloading rear suspension pivots the bike forward around the axis of the
swingarm and the drag of the decelerating motor pivot the motorcycle around the
rear axle. The reason there is a limit to the size of the obstacle for this
technique is that the front wheel cannot be in tight contact with the obstacle
when the rear suspension unloads for the second time as both front and rear will
just push you backwards off the wall. The most common error in the double blip
technique is not shutting the throttle off between blips. This causes the rear
suspension to stay loaded which doesn't allow the motorcycle to efficiently change
the direction of force from straight forward to up. If done properly the rear of
the motorcycle does not hit the base of the obstacle with any more force then is
necessary to grab traction for the climb.
Dan Williams
Jap Zap!
Jap Zap
The Jap Zap technique is useful for obstacles larger then the wheelbase of the
motorcycle. The biggest difference is the rear wheel does not contact the base of
the obstacle but contacts higher up effectively shortening the height of the
obstacle. The rider approaches the obstacle at a higher rate of speed then the
standard double blip. Depending on the size of the obstacle the rider blips the
throttle to lift the front wheel while bending his knees and moving over the back
of the bike. The throttle is lessened to prevent the front wheel from getting too
high and allow the rear suspension to unload. The front wheel is driven into the
face of the obstacle at the approximate point where the rear wheel will contact.
Just before the moment of front wheel contact the rider gives a large burst of
throttle while pulling his body up and forward loading the suspension fully while
changing his body motion to an upward vector. The throttle is immediately snapped
back to idle. Since both suspensions are loaded the rebound will cause the front
wheel to change direction the only way it can. Up. The rear wheel will leave the
ground and contact the obstacle near the contact point of the front wheel. At this
point the follow through is just like the double blip as the rear suspension
unloads and the drag from the throttled down motor rotates the front wheel
forward. Of course if you didn't get high enough to get the front wheel over the
top of the obstacle you're pooched. When it's right it happens so fast you're
surprised you're at the top. When it's wrong....well it can be a very long day.
The best way to study it is to watch some of the world round tapes and watch where
the rear wheel hits the obstacle. Slow motion helps. I find the usual culprit for
failing to Zap is not snapping off the throttle after the front wheel hits. You
need the violent unload of the suspension to make it work.
Dan Williams
Wheelie Turn
Floater
> I've been trying it on the bicycle all weekend and can't do it on
> one of those either.
>
> What am I missing??????
>
> Pete
You are missing the act of counter-weighting with your body. Every action
requires an equal and opposite reaction.
To wheelie turn left, try weighting the right peg first, while putting
your body weight to the left. Then weight the left peg and "swap places'
- bike mass and body mass, right when you start to wheelie. To get the
concept of it, sit in a chair. Hold your hands in front of you. Slide
your feet left while sliding your hands right. Then do the opposite.
Your feet represent what the bike will do, your hands, the bars, with the
body movement translating in between.
If you watch snow boarders, skate boarders, etc. You'll see a setup
before they twist one way. The setup is in the opposite direction.
The principle follows what it takes to hop a bike. You can't simply hop
up. You have to go down to go up.
It will be confusing at first, but when you do it, it will be eureka!
Chris Johnson
Scorpa / GasGas
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